| Thursday
Sitting with a pint of the black stuff in the airport W'spoons
was a very pleasant start to our adventures. Worries that Fraser had
'missed the bus' disappeared when he appeared ahead of us in the final-call queue. Thanks to Andy, our minibus was waiting at the airport and a
very easy journey of about 90 min took us through the dark to Zakopane
and up to our chalet. Almost disaster as Laurie couldn't find the owners
phone number but after a panic a scrap of paper turned up and eventually the driver reappeared with
the owner. What a place! - a bedroom each, most with en suite, balconies
with a barbie - all for £14 each a night - a good excuse for breaking
open the malt.
Friday
Started badly for Alan when the lock broke on his bathroom door -
with him inside! There was a suggestion that he could be fed for the
week through a
vent hole at the bottom of the door - much hilarity but he was
left to find his own way out. With the clag down we decided to hit
the town and stock up on food and drink. One of the frequent
buses took us down to the crowded main pedestrian drag where we stopped pavement-side
to sample the beer (and 'people watch') and Jabbers treated us to a
delicacy from a stall that most promptly spat out (a smoked cheese
pastry). Unsuspecting, David had a close brush with death when he exited
some toilets without realising he had to leave a tip and was pursued by
an old lady armed with knitting needles.
Back at the chalet we settled down for an evening in and barbie
experts got to work on a delicious BBQ washed down with some excellent
wine. With our large stock of beer flying out of the fridge the rest of
the evening passed very interestingly with wide ranging discussion
reaching areas never before explored (enough said!).
Saturday
With wall to wall blue skies the hills beckoned and
considering how much the beer stock had decreased last night we did well
to get off so early. A short walk led to the park entrance where we
parted with 4 zloties and spotted some worrying warning signs about
bears. At first we trotted through the forest and through a big clearing
looking up to rocky crags and then it was up, up through the dwarf
junipers to the col below the rocky peak of Giewont (1894m). Being one of the
most popular peaks in Poland the rocky path up to the big cross was
mobbed (even two nuns!) so we crossed to the lower summit to enjoy lunch and the
superb views. We pushed our way back through the throngs to the col
(note - you can be fined for straying off the path!) and up the track to
Kopa Kondracka (2004). From here we turned west along the runnable
grassy frontier ridge to our highpoint of Krzesanica (2096m) where we
enjoyed an extended sunbathe - the 'views' were particularly good -
according to Derek! A
short jog took us to Ciemniak and we belted down the superb ridge to the
Koscieliska valley where Derek dragged us in for a beer before we
tackled the road back to the chalet.
After a clean up we headed for the fleshpots of Zaco'.
The taxi driver (confused by Gordie's instructions of 'take us to a good
restaurant' and 'make sure its cheap') dropped us to a very cosy and
bustling grill where the platter of assorted grilled meat filled us and
more! At one point Gordie caused a stir by jumping up and waltzing off
in great style through the restaurant to the wee dance floor - it's
going to be adopted as the official Lomie dance - 'lets all do the
Gordie!' Eventually the platter defeated us and, minus Alan and Fraser,
the party moved on to the delights of a bar where the motives of some
'overfriendly' guys was under question.
Sunday
We did well to get away at a decent hour in the morning.
The plan had been to head up to the Orla Perc ridge but when we spotted
a sign in the bus for Morskie Oko, the lake below Rysy (the highest
point in Poland), we decided to make it our objective. Unfortunately the
traffic got busier and busier and the road head turned out to be 9km
from the lake. It seemed a long way in the heat as we jogged through the
throngs heading for the lake. From the hut the route leads round the
scenic lake of Morskie Oko and then a stiff climb to a second lake where
the crowds started to thin out. From there it's a steep, loose, rocky
ascent of 900m bedecked with chains near the top up to the rocky summit
of Rysy at 2499m. A short scramble took us to the slightly main top on
the Slovakian side at 2503m. It felt good to have achieved our main
objective so early in the holiday! After having a break and enjoying the spectacular
views of the surrounding rocky ridges we made our careful way back down
to the hut where Derek didn't need to drag us in for a beer. Half the
party couldn't face the 9km back down the road and enjoyed a horse drawn
wagon back down to the bus.
Monday
Alan and David needed a day off and headed into town. Al
enjoyed a stroll up the drag and a few beers while David walked up the
ski slope to the viewpoint above the town. The rest headed off into the
woods to run through the foothills (we heard a bear - honest!) to visit
some caves. Later on, back at the chalet, we got to work on another BBQ.
David eventually rolled up (sober!) in spite of having found his way
back to the dodgy scene of Saturday night's celebrations (our growing
worries that he might have ended up chained to the wall in some white
slavers dungeon proved unfounded!.
Tuesday
Today we split into two groups. Fraser Laurie Andy and
David picked up a hire car and headed off for a sobering and thought
provoking visit to Auchwitz about 90min drive away. Perhaps some light
relief was the pizza eating competition that developed when they stopped
on the way back.
Alan, Gordie, Derek and John reverted to Sundays
original goal - the fearsome Orla Perc ridge. Getting there involved a
bus into town and then a short bus trip up to the roadhead at Kuznice. A
busy trail took us up through the trees, along an open ridge giving good
views and then over the col and down to the Schronisko hut. The valley
opened up here with some pretty chalets and pastureland and the jagged
skyline of Orla Perc towering beyond. The track up to the Zavrat col led
round the pretty lake of Czarny Staw at 1623m then steeply up, with
chains in places, to the col at 2158m. This was a great place for a
breather with stupendous views along the Orla ridge to the left and
across the Slovakian Tatra. The timing along the main ridge was too much
for us so we decided to take the steep contouring track and climb up to
Swinica at 2301m. There was much laughter when Derek drew our attention
to some birds and Al immediately replied it was definitely an alpine
chough! Several sections, including two open chimneys, were
chained up but the exposure was nowhere too great. Brilliant views again
from the busy summit (easily accessible from the cable-car station). A
steep scramble of 250m took us to the col and then down to a very
attractive area of small lakes and dwarf juniper. It was good to be able
to run again and we soon rejoined our original track. Further on at the
col we took the left hand fork which took us down an attractive little
valley and a date with beers at Kuznice and then big slabs of pizza at
the bus station. For me it was definitely the best day on the hills!
In the evening we headed downtown
and found David in the bar looking a bit forlorn with his team already
one down in the footie.
Wednesday
Yet another day of blue skies.
Bursting with energy the A team headed off into the woods for another
male bonding session. They headed west first along the foothills towards
the cable-car station and then back towards the col below Giewont. A few
took in part of the border ridge and came down what turned into an ankle
breaking boulder path. The consensus - best run of the week!
Well done to Derek who was the
only one of the group to manage five runs in a row. Alan decided he
couldn't keep up with the youngsters and enjoyed a very relaxing saunter
up to an open meadow for a spot of sunbathing.
In the evening we all headed
downtown to celebrate our final night with a fine meal in a very cosy
eating place. We had a very pleasant time sharing a spread of delicious
local dishes washed down with plenty of wine and chatting to the
waitress Katrina (met earlier in the week) about life in Zacopane.
Thursday
The taxi arrived early (too early
for 'sleepy'!) and thankfully we managed to escape without the owner
inspecting the house too carefully! The sun was shining again and
we enjoyed the very scenic run into Krakow. We had most of the day to
spare and after leaving our sacks in the station (and somehow losing
Gordie - no he hadn't gone straight to the airport!) split up to wander
about what is one of the best preserved medieval cities in Europe. With
the castle on its hill towering above the river Vistula and the largest
medieval square in Europe with its cathedral (a bugler plays on each
hour from the tower) there is plenty to see.
We all agreed that it had been an
interesting and eventful week with some great runs but don't forget the
pledge - 'what's on tour stays on tour!'
More great Tatra pics from John here
http://www.flickr.com/photos/westiesjohn/sets/72157628774346007/
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